Bar Shu, Soho

In a part of central London where restaurant sites seem to change hands every few months, Bar Shu is a pleasingly permanent fixture. In fact this was one of the first places I ever reviewed on the blog, all the way back in 2007, and it seems that even as a newcomer to fiercely authentic Sichuan cuisine (as I was back then) I was quietly impressed.

In the years since, I've been fortunate enough to enjoy some fantastic Sichuan meals in London, from Lewisham to Bloomsbury to Camberwell, and though I can't pretend to have anything near a full grasp of its nuances and varieties (there are a breathtaking number of regional variations within the vast Sichuan province itself) I do at least know vaguely what to expect, and can order a plate of pock-marked old-woman's beancurd without chuckling.

Even so, the power and intensity of authentic Sichuan cooking still has the potential to take you by surprise. Even the table snacks at Bar Shu, peanuts dressed in a remarkable chilli/Sichuan pepper powder, are painfully addictive, tasering your mouth with metallic zing whilst also teasing with salt and umami. It's quite the rush.

"Mouthwatering" Sichuan chicken was precisely that, a riot of flavour and intense chilli heat that battered all of the senses at once. Part of the joy of Sichuan food, at least real Sichuan food, is that the sheer complexity of the way the different elements are balanced together is key to its success - you're never quite sure exactly where the sour, sweet, salty etc. components are coming from but you know it works, and you know you want more of it.

Pickled veg were nicely done, with a good balance of vinegar and sugar, something to cool the palate in between mouthfuls of fiery mouthwatering chicken.

Cloud ear fungus is always a must-order dish, and was very well done here with plenty of powerful seasoning and nice big stalks of crunchy coriander. If you've not yet had the pleasure of trying this stuff, try and imagine slightly gelatinous weirdly fleshy mushrooms. In fact don't imagine that, I'm making them sound horrible when actually they're lovely. Just try it, you won't regret it.

Sichuan cuisine boasts a huge number of different, interesting ways with offal, and this classic dish - "man and wife offal slices" had a variety of the more unusual parts of a cow (including, but probably not limited to, tripe and lung) dressed in another wonderfully complex, powerfully flavoured sauce.

For a bit of variety, and with a vague nod to health, a plate of morning glory was bouncy and fresh and - like everything else - perfectly cooked and seasoned. I don't think I've ever had a truly disappointing vegetable dish in a Sichuan restaurant; they always seem to get this kind of thing exactly right.

Of course we also had to order the aformentioned pock-marked old woman's beancurd and completely wonderful it was too, the tofu being incredibly light and the sauce rich and packed full of flavour. I appreciate I'm being a bit thin on the details when it comes to describing these dishes but even accounting for my staggering ignorance of one of the world's great cuisines, there's something about Sichuan food, as I said earlier, that almost defies description. There's a lot going on, and attempting to cover it all in a few sentences seems almost reductive.

We finished with a Bar Shu classic - whole sea bass in chilli oil - which despite its size and presumably the challenges it presents to cook, was actually perfectly timed, the flesh coming away from the bones in nice clean white chunks. A real showstopper of a presentation, too, guaranteed to turn heads.

As this was a hashtag invite, we didn't see a bill, however in the interests of fairness it's probably worth pointing out that Bar Shu is no budget affair. If you're used to paying low prices for your Sichuan food in London's outer boroughs then the prices here (our meal would have come to about £125 with a couple of beers) may raise some eyebrows. But having said that, this is Soho, and in this smart room populated by attentive, pleasant staff it feels entirely reasonable to pay a little premium.

And as I said, the food is of such a high standard you're not going to regret opening up your wallet a bit and making the most of it. The typically giant Sichuanese menu contains some real gems, a chance to sample defiantly authentic regional Chinese food right in the middle of Theatreland. While many of its neighbours have come and gone over the years, Bar Shu has seen little reason to change its winning formula and has come out of the other end of the Covid pandemic as confidently (and as popular) as ever. Long may it continue.

8/10

I was invited to Bar Shu and didn't see a bill.